Tuesday 20 January 2015

Heaven on Earth-Himalayas.

Part I
Himalayas Winter Trekking Expedition.

23rd Dec, 7.30, 

Jigs: Guys, am sorry, I wouldn’t be joining for the trek.
Me: WTF!
Ravi: Ayu kidding me?
Jigs: Am serious, my office has not approved the holidays. We have just got a big project to complete. They aren’t approving anyone’s Christmas leave.

And hence, we were just left with each other for the trek, me and Ravi. This was a complete bad start to the trek. A friend dropping out from the trek when it’s just 3 who originally planned, was a big blow.

Nevertheless, our bags were already packed and we were excited to the core. Excited to trek. Excited for the snow.

As of then, 70 trains were running late. Out of excitement, we missed checking if the train we were supposed to board was even running on time or not. Our train was scheduled at 19.15 and we decently reached railway station by 18.30. To our surprise, the train was delayed. After getting fucked up for a good 8 hours on the railway station, the train departed. The Himalayan journey began!

25th morning we woke up to a vendor selling his newspaper in train.

"Aaj ki tazaa khabar-Delhi mai bomb blast. 5 ki maut, 100 ghayal"

I ask for the newspaper. He charged Rs. 5. I glanced through the headlines. I rubbed my eyes and again went through it thoroughly. I didn't find any such news..

I take my watch out to check the time. It was 3 am.

The guy sleeping on the next berth says, Welcome to Delhi!" :D

Soon again we doze off. When we woke up, we had to pull our sweaters and the jackets as we started shivering.

We were surprised to see the fog out upon waking up.

Fog during our journey! 
We were supposed to reach Delhi on 25th Dec 6.00 and catch up another train to Pathankot scheduled from Delhi at 7.15, reach Pathankot by evening and catch up a bus to Dalhousie (our base camp) which is another 3 hours journey. But our train was already late and we were sure of missing the Pathankot train. Fortunately, we had bus option from Delhi to Pathankot. But unfortunately, the last bus from Delhi was scheduled at 20.30.

After 13 hours of delay, we finally reached Nizammuddin.

AND THE CHASE BEGINS.

It was another half an hour journey from Nizamuddin railway station to ISBT (supposedly the biggest bus terminus of Delhi) where we were supposed to catch our bus. Having reached ISBT at 20.25, just 5 minutes before the final bus would depart, we found ourselves lucky enough to get 2 tickets to Pathankot out of last 3 left.

Phew, we are going to Pathankot tonight!

Early morning 26th Dec, Pathankot welcomed us with a chill 4 degrees. Having just woken up from an incomplete sleep, I picked up the wrong luggage, luckily not mine :P And by the time Ravi realized that I picked up someone else’s Trolley instead of his, the bus was gone :D

By God’s grace, we found an auto fellow nearby, who was aware of the scenario, saying that. “I know the bus driver’s number. Don’t you worry, we will catch him up. Just sit in my auto.”

Not having any other alternative, we listened to the driver and sat in his auto. 

AND THE CHASE BEGINS.

We lost all our hopes while we saw the auto driver riding his auto at good 30kmph on the highway where the bus was driving at >60kmph. The auto driver assured us that the Jammu border is just 20kms away and the bus will surely halt for 30 minutes for border checkup. We will catch up with them there. Meanwhile, he gave his phone to me and asked me to keep trying the driver’s number until he picks up.

And then, at this one turning, Ravi and I felt like the Jammu border toll has come. He asked me t get down and quickly find our bus. I obeyed his words and boarded down. But the auto didn’t stop. It kept on moving and moving and moving, and finally out of my horizon :D 

Stranded on the highway.
I switch on my phone which was left with 4% charge, dial Ravi, only to realize that his phone is switched off. And then a traditional local music plays. I turn around 360 degree to find who’s playing the music in this highway but I failed to find one. Only seconds later, I realized that it’s the driver’s mobile which is ringing :D

All 3 of us were worried. 
  • Ravi worried for his lugguage.
  • Driver worried for his phone.
  • Am worried of having been stranded on the Pathankot-Jammu highway! :D 
It was the funniest scene I ever came across in my life :D Unsure what to do, I zipped down my Jean, urinated in the pious Raavi river flowing straight down till Pakistan and found myself a comfortable place on the barrier as I was sure that the auto would take a U-turn from the Jammu border toll gate to travel back to Pathankot.

Jammu toll gate. 
And as planned, happened. Ravi reached the toll, found the bus and exchanged the trolley with his own trolley. The auto took a U-turn down the same highway. The driver found me at the same spot where I boarded down and it was a happy reunion for all 3 of us :D 

After an hour of tragedies, we reach Pathankot back at 8.00 hours. To our shocking surprise, the driver demanded just Rs. 500. Without bargaining hard, we shelled it out as it was so good of him for not cheating us. Respect for this driver.

The next hurdle: a bus from Pathankot to Dalhousie which is crazy 8000 feet high with many so called “hair pin bend”. I was sure of vomiting (suffer big time from motion sickness) so I helped myself with just a glass of tea. Ravi though, unsure of his own motion sickness, out of hunger, had 2 bananas :D

The bus journey began. I was just praying not to vomit. I took the window seat, plugged my earphone and tried hard to sleep. After just 30 minutes of our journey, Ravi started feeling giddy and was burping. I asked, “is it a vomit sensation?”  He nodded with some wrinkles on his forehead, clearly looking worried.

The sadist in me was so happy to find a company who would vomit with me :D In the next 10 minutes, we exchanged our seats and he vomited the 2 bananas he had this morning out of the window :D

Looking at him vomiting, I started burping now, the vomit sensation. We exchange our seats again and this time I vomited the only cup of tea I had in the last 12 hours :D

Another 10 minutes down the lane, we exchange our seat again and Ravi vomits, god knows what, from his empty stomach :D

I never felt any vomit sensation again as I was busy laughing at Ravi’s statement,

“Macha, sab nikal diya phir bhi vomit ho raha hai. Aisa lag raha hai ke ab tho liver hi bahar aa jayega!”

For the whole journey, Ravi would have vomited 4-5 times whereas I stopped at 1. Lucky me, for the first time. Damn, I love visiting these hill stations but can it be built on the ground level? ;)

We reached Paniket at 12.30 and took another bus for Dalhousie. Finally, after a continuous journey of 66 hours, we reached our base camp-YHAI, Dalhousie J

The first thing we did was wash ourselves in a tub full of hot water. Soon we helped ourselves with some lunch and started mingling with people. The first person we interacted with was Sathya. And we never knew he would turn out to be the best companion for the whole trek J

We were the last people in our batch-DW15 to reach the camp. We missed

·         1st day-Reporting Day.
·         2nd day-Acclimatization trek.

But the actual trek was supposed to begin tomorrow.
·         3rd day-Trekking from Dalhousie to Kalatop
·         4th day-Trekking from Kalatop to Khajjiar.
·         5th day-Trekking from Khajjiar to Mangla.

These names were as alien to me as it is for you. But once there, you are sure to fall in love with the place as well as the people.

Day 3:

Dalhousie to Kalatop:

The next morning, 27th of Dec, we woke up by 6.00, packed our bags, had breakfast and were all set for the trek.

We were provided by 2 lifeguards, one who would lead the group of 47 trekkers, and one who would follow the same group of 47 trekkers. We were strictly instructed to stay between these 2 lifeguards. 

They warned us saying,
“Mountains never give a second chance for your mistakes” :D 

Group Photo.

First Selfie :P


The trek began. We moved out of the Dalhousie camp like warriors who are entering the Warfield. No, we never felt that. The DW-16 made us feel that :P

The journey from Dalhousie to Kalatop was a good 12-15kms via road covered with snow.
  
During trekking.

Snow capped mountain. 

I grasped snow in my hands for the first time. It felt so good J 

And suddenly so much of snow outside a hotel! 
 As we kept moving, snow became a part of our trek. Almost the entire roads were covered with snow.






Moments later, we found some fresh snow :)  



Houses deeply immersed in snow. 

The kiss of nature! 


Clearing the snow..purely for the pic :P


After a continuous trekking of hours, we reach Kalatop camp by 4pm in the evening.

Kalatop. 

Our place of stay.
We stayed in Shelter house, covered all the sides by snow. The temperature went up to -7 degree that night. Luckily, we survived :P

Once at Kalatop, we confronted a strict camp leader. He didn't let us go to our room as well. I felt like am a contestant of Bigg Boss show. Camp leader acting like the Bigg Boss:

"Bigg Boss chahte hai, ke aap sab log line main khade ho jao."
"Bigg Boss chahte hai, ke aap sab log dinner kar lo."
"Bigg Boss chahte hai, ke aap sab log bournvita pee lo." :D

But above all, he was a very sweet guy. And these guys do a commendable job. They wake up as early as 3 am to cook breakfast and pack lunch for the trekkers by 7 am. And you can never expect any better food on the mountains than what they cook. Undoubtedly, the best. Respect! 

Post hot soup, we spent our eve playing some games.


And the silly game of playing with snow ball :D

The Kawali team made it and I made full use of it for my photos :P
Tired as we were, after a quick dinner and a glass of bournvita, we head to our room just to find a group of people, roughly 10, enjoying dinner with some drinks. They invite us for some drinks.

Damn, my habit of not drinking! ;) We accompany them though for the sake of mingling with each other. 

By the end of the day, my leg was in pain. My toe, my fingers and my sole. Thanks to my shoe. Fortunately, we had a doctor with us, Adnan, the dancer from Kawali team. Sorry, Mumbai :P 

After taking a small medication, I pushed myself into the sleeping bag provided.

Day 4:

Kalatop to Khajjiar:

Next day morning I felt shiver throughout my body. The temperature was crazily beyond zero. Hardly making my mind to brush, I step out of the room and start my day.

Ravi kept on reminding me of his ayurvedic tablets which works as good as whisky and rum and keeps body warmer from inside :D

Soon after breakfast, we start our trek from Kalatop to Khajjiar. We were excited to see the “Switzerland of Himachal Pradesh.” :P 

Stepping out of Kalatop camp.
This time, we are descending down and via forest route.

This dog had been an integral part of our trek. He joined us at Kalatop and trekked till Mangla. God knows where he went post Mangla. The 48th member of DW15.
The forest route was as dangerous as anything could be. Narrow path with very little space to overtake someone. 


The Forest Trek. Risky as hell. One slip and even God wouldn't be able to find you :D

Me and Ravi are leading everyone. Such a pride feeling I tell you :P 

Look at the angle at which we are ascending. 

Traces of snow in forest.


This is how we crossed the fallen trees in our path. Mind you, if you slip, you would slide down feets below! 

As said, one slip and....

....and even God wouldn't be able to find you! 

"Ah there, look at it, thats Schumaggi!!"

"Oh here, the bird with blue throat, The Charmant!!"

"There there, the Brazilian Tenguar!!"

We spotted birds which even God has never created! :D Sorry Adnan, I never was a bird watcher even in my bad dreams :P

And finally, after trekkinf for hours,  reach Khajjiar!!

The accomodation in Khajjiar was the best of all. Bigger rooms, marble flooring, neater toilets ;) 

But our happiness was again short lived when we realized that one room is meant for 10 people. Yes..you heard it right. 10 people!! And the room which seemed bigger suddenly looked very small.

"Fucking 10 people in a fucking small room?!" :D

By now, groups were made. Everyone chose their roommates. Me and Ravi were with Vizag 3 and Kawaali brothers. 8 people all together in our room. 

Starting from the right of the screen in clockwise direction is me, Ravi, Sridhar and Shiva. Sathya clicking the pic.
  
View from our room.

View from our room.
Sooner, me and Ravi left with Vizag 3 for drinks.

Damn, my habit of not drinking ;) But Thanks to Sathya, he accompanied me with a Coke. 

It was a great time over drinks and some paneer pakoda. Me and Sridhar arguing over a chapter in the book, "The Alchemist" which he said he will show to prove me but haven't yet :P So apparently it isn't there in that book :P Sorry Sridhar for still stretching this ;)

You guys are best. And were the best companion through out the trek! :) 

After some drinks, we all settled down in our room, this time arguing over phones. Sridhar and his unconditional love for iPhone speaking for it and Sathya arguing against it :D Ravi on Sridhar's side and me on Sathya's. Shiva acted neutral. We laughed over and over again. And the best part where we all went rolling on the floor was when Sridhar started comparing phones with wifes quoting some funny examples :D

We all were so fresh even after trekking for 15 kms and didn't feel like sleeping. But we had to wake up early next day hence we push ourselves inside the sleeping bag and call it a day.

Day 5:

Khajjiar to Mangla:

After a quick breakfast and the pack lunch session, we start the 5th and the last day of our trek which involved descending down from Khajjiar to Mangla via mountain.

Before that we visited the Khajjiar park, which is supposedly the only place of attraction in the Switzerland of Himachal Pradesh :P 

The panaromic view of the Khajjiar park. Extremely beautiful!
The one and only group photo with Vizag 3. Sathya on my left, Shiva on my right and Sridhar on his right. 
Time for Solo :P

Time for Solo :P
Post this, we start our trekking to Mangla.

A statue of Lord Shiva, some crazy feets high, on mountain. Divine! 

This is my favorite shot. Heaven on Earth!!!

Our Trekking path on Mountain.
 

Trekking path,

While trekking.

Again, a narrow slip and... :D

Mountain trekking was the best.

Descending down was so tough. First time ever I felt a knee pain!! 

This is the place where Ravi slipped down. Today if he is alive, the platform beneath is to be thanked for :D He got his second life. If not, today, instead of writing this memoir, we would have been mourning for his death :D I still remember how Sridhar got scared after this and decided to walk on the platform rather! :D Jokes apart, this was really really scary. Luckily, Ravi just got his knee injured with some small bruises. 

School on the mountain!! 

These kids were looking so sweet while studying sincerely :) 
Trekking down the mountain. Real pain!! 

Nature. Beauty. Peace! 

Look at the narrow path and imagine how risky would it be to trek here.

Am still wondering, where did he borrow this glares from :P 

While trekking.


Can you see the roads down there? 

How weird is this tree! 
Finally, by around 5 in the evening we reach Mangla.

The accomodation here was the worst. Stinking rooms, dirty toilets, stains on the wall which looked like someone had urinated on them :D

Here, we asked people not to make dinner for us as we planned to head for Chamba, a city closer by.

Me, Ravi, Vizag 3, and Kawaali group (Kawaali brothers + 2 girls) book a cab and head for Chamba.

The first thing my desperate eyes noticed about Chamba was Girls!! Girls looked so pious, divine and naturally beautiful!! I couldn't take my eyes away from them. Fuck! The city girls are just nothing in front of these girls!! I would readily marry if my mom finds a girl from Chamba! ;)


At Chamba. Shiva on my left.

We were told that Chamba is famous for leather. We all were with the hopes of buying ourselves a leather shoe at least. But we didn't even find a leather shop! :D

After trying hard, we landed to a hotel for some dinner with drinks.

Damn, my habit of not drinking ;) Again,Thanks Sathya for accompanying me with a coke :D

I would not forget to mention the argument between Shiva and Sridhar this time. Shiva and his Kaju Curry vs Sridhar and his Dal Makhani :D I was supporting Shiva and Ravi with Sridhar. Sathya was neutral this time :D For us, Kaju Curry was the best, right Shiva? ;)

After so many days, I enjoyed a burp post dinner. Wow! It felt so good :D

The moment we all reached our room, we were taken aback by the stink. I still remember how we threw out all the socks which were the source of the stink :D

And Shiva, spraying Ravi's deo on the walls !! :D Oh God, I could barely stop laughing :D

I can never forget Sridhar's dialogue which made us laugh crazy as hell, "Even my driver gets a better accommodation than this!" The tone Sridhar uses is just amazing! :D One could not stop laughing :D

And then his pledge of not trekking again ever in his life!! :D Hahaha. You are just amazing man!! Me and Ravi laughed so badly that night!!

We were laughing so loudly that an old man literally woke up and scolded me for creating nuisance :D He looked deep into my eyes and said strongly that, "We are sleeping, why don't you people understand that? It's already 11pm. Please let us sleep"

I was humiliated but Sridhar's comments were so active in my mind that I was laughing even while the old man was scolding:D It was then Sathya and Sridhar apologized the old man and assured that everyone would go to sleep now! Later I really felt sorry for disturbing him but I was just out of control :D

But still, that didn't stop us. Me and Ravi were still laughing heavily under our sleeping bags :D After barely controlling our laugh, we doze off. This was the last day with the Vizag 3.

Next day morning, we were supposed to board a bus from Dalhousie to Amritsar scheduled at 9.30. Hence we planned to leave Mangla camp by as early as 6.00 along with the Kawali team, Pratik and Karthik who were to continue their journey to Dharashala from Dalhousie.

Day 6:

Mangla to Dalhousie to Amritsar:

We woke up as early as 5.30 and packed our stuffs to start for Dalhousie.

Now was the time to bid adieu to the entire DW15. The best part about this trek was neither the mountain nor the snow. Not even the girls for that matter;) But the PEOPLE.

I never imagined I would get to meet such beautiful people ever. Damn! Its over.

With a heavy heart, I visit everyone personally, promise to be in touch, and bid adieu.

And our journey to Dalhousie starts.

Our cab for Mangla to Dalhousie.
Cautious this time, Ravi had nothing from morning to avoid vomiting! :D And I usual was with the empty stomach all set not to vomit.

Just 20 minutes down the journey, I started burping again. Damn!! Not again!! Though the journey was uncomfortable, as I kept burping, I never vomited! :D

During our journey, we crossed the beautiful Raavi river which flows directly to Pakistan.

Heavenly Beautiful! 


5 beauties of nature at one point-Air, Water, Forest, Mountain and Snow!
We managed to reach Dalhousie base camp by 9.00. Our bus was scheduled at 9.30. We saw the DW20 being instructed the same Do's and Don'ts we were instructed minutes before starting. Just 30 minutes to complete all the formalities, unpack the trekking bag, pick our luggage and run to the bus stand to catch the bus.

We hurried to the camp instructors, Hitesh and DB, as soon as the DW20 started from the camp. We completed all the formalities as soon as we could. And now was the time for the proudest feeling. We were given our trekking certificate! :D To be honest, I felt as proud as I used to in my high school while receiving my cretificate;)

The time was 9.30 by now. Fish!! Run!!

AND THE CHASE BEGINS!

A 5 minutes walk from the base camp, we walked as fast as we could with our luggage and reached the bus stand. I was relieved to find the bus waiting still. And we boarded the bus to Amritsar.

What a journey this had been. Dalhousie showed me the best days of my life. I wished I could just stay there for the rest of my life.

I'm going to miss this badly.

The Himalayas trek comes to an end !



Part 2
Amritsar-Rishikesh-Delhi